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The aging process
Facial ageing is a continuous process. It starts at age 20 and by age 30 the aging process takes hold. Today I am seeing more and more women aged 30-35 coming into Cosmos. The current trend is to push bach surgery for as long as possible with non-surgical options such as anti-wrinkle injections to smooth away lines and dermal fillers to reshape and restore volume to the face, as well as light therapy and good skin care.
The 20s
Before the age of 15 we have nearly perfect skin with smooth texture, small pores, excellent repair capabilities , good skin hydration and low sebaceous(oil) gland activity
In your 20s the skin begins to develop:
- High sebaceous (oil) gland activity –hence acne is a key factor in surface texture
- Strong cohesion (stickiness) between skin layers –hence the great elasticity in your 20s
- Mild drop in dermal (second layer of skin) repair and collagen synthesis .Skin loses about 1% of its collagen and elastic fibers per year after age 25, hence the fine lines start to appear in your mid 20s
- Small drop in skin hydration, noticeable particularly in winters
- pore size increases
- rapid cell turnover hence the shinny complexion of younger looking skin
What are some of the problems associated with skin in its 20s? (Oiliness/dryness, acne?)
You usually begin to notice the effects of aging in your mid- 20s when fine wrinkles, light blemishes, and sun spots begin to appear. You may also notice changes in the texture of your skin with the development of acne.
There is a small drop in skin hydration , more noticeable in winter.
Pore size begins to increase in your twenties
What kind of skin care regimen do we recommend?
screen in the morning and a Retiniod (Vitamin A) at night will help stop the aging process and prevent pigmentation and acne
A moisturiser day and night if the skin is dry . This will help the skin repair process. All moisturisers have the potential to clog pores and should only be used if the skin is dry
Are there any particular skin care ingredients we should be buying ?
1. ZINC OXIDE SUNCREEN
A sunscreen with both UV A and UV B protection. Most sunscreen just protect you from UV B sunlight which causes pigmentation,sunburns and melanoma. Sunscreen containing Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide protect you from both UV A and UV B sunlight.
UV A sunlight penetrates deeper than UV B sunlight and causes the break down of collagen. One can think of UVB as causing skin cancer, and UVA as the primary cause of photoaging.
By preventing sunburn, UVB blockers may actually increase UVA exposure by allowing people to spend more time in the sun than they would without protection.
2. RETIN A gel
We also encourage patients in their 20s to begin using retinoids (Vitamin A ). Retinoids include the well known prescription medications such as Retin-A, Stieva A ,Zorac and Retrieve and over-the-counter agents such as retinaldehyde, retinol and retinyl palmitate. Retinoids act on the DNA of the living layers of the skin to reverse the signs and symptoms of sun damage and skin aging. My favourite Retiniods for this age group are Retin A or Zorac because they are more effective than over-the-counter preparations and help with acne. They are both cheap (less than $60). For sensitive skin that cannot handle prescription Retin A or Zorac I use preparations containing Retinaldehyde (Avene Skincare).
3. With acne prone skin you may want to add a salicylic acid and/or benzyl peroxide containing preparations to your skin care regimen.
tips for patients in their 20s
The most important thing you can do during this decade is develop good habits. PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE
- Hopefully, you've been using sunscreen regularly since you were a child. (Sun protection should begin in childhood because it is estimated that 80 percent of lifetime sun exposure occurs before age 18) . Avoiding the sun between 10am and 4pm, when the sun's rays are most intense. Facial skin loses about 1% of its collagen and elastic fibers per year after age 25, and chronic sun exposure can increase this loss markedly. Darker skinned individuals have a"built-in" sunscreen, but they have only a 10 year advantage over those that are fairer-skinned. Sun exposure is cumulative: the UV rays will damage your skin whether you're napping on the beach with a tropical drink or working on a building site. A broad spectrum sunscreen with UV A and UV B protection is essential.
- If you smoke, stop - and definitely don't start.
- Learn to incorporate skin-friendly foods into your diet, like fruit and green tea for antioxidants, and salmon for omega-3 fatty acids.
The 30s
During the 30's There is a slowing of the epidermis cell turnover and a moderate decrease in dermal repair, resulting in less collagen , elasin and hyaluronic acid
the main issues associated with 30s are :
- the appearance of frown lines , smile lines and forehead line due to overactive muscles.
- the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles and folds in the midface as you loss collagen and the fat pad (which normally lies over your cheek bone) descends south
- more prominent changes in colour/complexion including pigmentation and capillaries both due to the damaging effects of the sun on pigment cells and capillaries
- More defined changes in texture. Your skin becomes noticeably rougher and is no longer as smooth as it used to be due to the slowing of the cell turnover
- Skin begins to sag due to loss of collagen especially around the eye
- Noticeable and significant drop in skin hydration due to the decrease in hyaluronic acid
- Pore size will increase
Tips for patients in their 30's
Patients should continue with their sunscreen, retinoid and moisturiser. They should also add Antioxidants like Vitamin C and fruity acids like glycolic acid. Antioxidants they are the best way to fight the skin damage that leads to lines and wrinkles. Add plenty of oral antioxidants to your diet like green tea. Fruit acids are great for exfoliating the top dead skin layer thereby improving skin texture, unclogging pores and the penetration of other agents like agents like vitamin A.
A sunscreen and moisturiser in the morning . A Vitamin A , Vitamin C , a fruit acid and moisturiser before going to bed.
Skincare tips for the 30's
- Again Zinc oxide sunscreen and
- A retinoid. Zorac (Tazarotene cream) is the most effective of all retiniods and has the least side effects. ZORAC Tazarotene 0.1% cream, is a new and effective agent in the fight against aging skin. Related to Retin-A and Retrieve , Tazarotene is a "third generation" retinoid, which appears to be less irritating and more effective than it's "first generation" relatives at reversing the adverse effects of chronic sun damage
- The most used topical antioxidant is Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid, L-ascorbate), essential for collagen synthesis and UV protection. In order to be absorbed through the skin effectively, Vitamin C must be very acidic, and such formulations may be irritating, especially in patients with dry, sensitive skin. The Vitamin C must be stable, acidic and non-irriating to be effective. Other popular antioxidants used topically include idebenone, green tea, ferulic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, and Coenzyme Q10. Idebenone may be more effective than vitamin C but it has a high incidence of contact dermatitis. The other antioxidants are too irritating in the effective concentrations and are best taken orally
- Fruit acids or Alpha Hydroxy Acids- the most common is glycolic acid derived from sugar cane. Other fruit acids include lactic acid (milk), citric acid (oranges,lemon), pyruvic acid (bananas), tartaric acid (grapes) and malic acid (apples). Fruit acids need to have a concentration of at least 8% and a acidity of ph<3 , to reverse the signs of aging
The 40s
By the age of 40 look out for the following :
- Continued decrease in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid leading to saggy skin with reduced elasticity
- Even slower cell turnover leading to dry rough skin
- Significant decrease in dermal repair and immune system
- More prominent frown lines , smile lines and forehead line due to overactive muscles. The muscles that depress the face become stronger than the muscles that elevate the face. Botox is the best treatment for overactive muscles
- More prominent wrinkles and folds in the midface- as you loss collagen and the fat pad which normally lies over your cheek bone descends south. A dermal filler like Juvederm is best option for deep folds
- The formation of lines and hollowing around the mouth due to loss of collagen and bone reabsorption. A dermal stimulator like Sculptra is a good treatment for this problem
- more prominent changes in colour/complexion including pigmentation and capillaries both due to the damaging effects of the sun on pigment cells and capillaries. Yellow discolouration of the skin begins (sallowness). Laser treatments and sun protection is the best option for this problem
- The loss and movement of fat. The movement of the fat pad also causes the hollowing in the cheeks. The loss of fat causes hollowing under the eyes. Dermal fillers like juvederm and fat transfer can help with the hollowing
- Rough and dry skin due to the decreased cell turn over and the loss of hyaluronic acid in the skin. Good Skin care and a facial peel every few months. Having said that if you are on good skin care a facial peel may be a waste of time and you would be better advised to save your money to get other antiaging treatments.
- Skin continues to sag due to the loss of collagen, with the appearance of jowls and droppy eyelids
the ideal skincare regimen for 40s skin?
The same as for your 30s with the possible addition of niacinamide. Niacinamide provides immune protection
Is it possible to reverse damage at this age? How? And is having regular facials beneficial?
It is possible to reverse the signs of aging with good skin care, botox, Juvederm (dermal filler), Sculptra (dermal stimulator) and laser treatments. The centre piece to antiaging is a good skin care regime. There is no point going to the dentist if you don't brush your teeth. The same applies with daily skin care. Daily skin care involves the application of a sunscreen, a Vitamin A Retinoid and an Antioxidant cream. Relaxing overactive muscles to achieve a lift and refreshed look is best done with Botox. Revolumising the face is best done with a dermal filler (Juvederm) and a dermal stimulator (Sculptra). Reflection (colouring), roughness and redraping can all be addressed using daily skin care and light based therapy.
For patients who still have problems despite the use of daily skin care, facial peels may be of benefit. Facial peels can be a great way to smooth rough dry skin.
For more information please call us on 1300 138 797 or email info@cosmosclinic.com.au
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